Day 7 – 15 miles/94
Unspectacular scenery most of the day. It seems we left most of the week 1 bubble in Julian, we only saw about 6 other hikers we didn’t recognize. We had a long steady climb up the San Felipe ridge. This is a particularly dry segment, so water is provided by PCTA at a large water cache – pallets of gallon jugs they drive up to the trail. Between the cactus and yucca, there were lots of little wild flowers all over, tiny asters, chicory, and some of the first cactus flowers were blooming too.
The weather was cool and breezy as a maritime airmass pushed inland, a welcome change in this exposed landscape. We were rewarded with nice views of the valley and mountains we hiked from the day before once we got above 3500′.
The moist air brought in some wicked clouds, rolling in over the hill tops at sunset. With a windy evening in store, we found a relatively sheltered campsite. We did our first cowboy camping (no tent) to avoid flappy tent sounds. Our plan worked quite well, it was the best night of sleep so far for Maggie and me.
Day 8 – 15 miles/109
We passed the 100 mile mark! A small milestone for our long journey, but we felt accomplished with the pace we have maintained.
One more mile to get to the road where we hitched to Montezuma Valley Market. This was a fantastic little spot, definitely catering to thru hikers. Dried foods, fuel, and of course some beer. We resupplied for the next 3 days to get us to Idyllwild. We enjoyed a loooong lunch, talking with other hikers, and avoiding some mid-day heat. With a quick ride back to the trail, we started hiking again at 1:30pm when it was truly hot. After probably less than half a mile, we ran into the four guys we’ve seen consistently since day 1, they were taking a siesta in the last bit of shade for awhile. We couldn’t help but join them for a good hour in the hopes it would cool off a bit. We continued through a little more desert, then the trail opened up to vast grassy meadows.
While it was open and sunny, the grass seemed to keep the temperature down. It was quite pleasant after so many miles of scrubby rocky desert. I never thought I could be so stoked on an open field of grass.
Part way through, the trail passes by eagle rock, which doesn’t take much imagination to see why it got that name. A few more miles to hike along an idyllic little creek amongst enormous oak trees. It felt almost like New England. We camped with 11 others on a large beach of granitic sand by the creek, the frogs trying to sing lullabies as we drifted off to sleep.
Day 9 – 15 miles/124
We made it out of camp before 8, finally, but we were still the last ones to leave. A few more miles of morning meadows before we started climbing up into desert. Maggie suddenly realized she didn’t have her phone. She ran back, while I carried her pack another 1/2 mile to a shady stream crossing. Maggie returned shortly with info that another hiker picked up her phone. A bit early for a siesta but we had lunch and water in the shade, chatted with two hikers from Canada. About an hour later, the hiker who allegedly had Maggie’s phone walked through and reported that she left the phone 2 miles back at a picnic table, understandably since she didn’t know who the phone belonged to. At least it was a little closer. Maggie ran back to get it, earning 6 bonus miles. I read my book under a tree.
Now about 2pm, heat of the day, we climbed back into the desert. It was stupidly hot, with no clouds, for 3 solid hours. We took shade breaks where ever we could take them under the scant shrubbery. We climbed higher, the sun got lower, and the shadows were refreshingly cool.
The views got better as we searched for a place to set up for the night. We camped amongst a field of white granite boulders and reflected on the trials we endured.
Day 10 – 19 miles/143
Largely unspectacular scenery again. I honestly don’t think I would ever backpack through this part of California if it weren’t a part of something greater… We had decent climb on the side of Combs peak before a long descent down into hot open desert foothills and drainages below. We walked through heat of the day, but a cool breeze kept temperature manageable, and the downhill made it feel easy. We didn’t see many people.
Our water for the day came from a sketchy concrete cistern 15 miles in. You had to reach down into this dark pool and hope you didn’t fall in. Being 3pm, we took a siesta for a good hour. My first major blister appeared on my big toe, so I popped it and wrapped up my toe.
The sun waning, we pushed three-ish more miles to get closer to Paradise Valley Cafe and Idyllwild for lunch the next day. We camped alone in a big sandy wash.
Day 11 – 9 miles/152
We woke up early to get 9 miles out of the way and get to PVC for lunch. We cruised through middle elevation desert to arrive at PVC around 11:30. We both ate giant hamburgers, fries, and coleslaw, a nice treat. A good 20 or 30 hikers were milling around the cafe, backpacks strewn about.
Two hitches later, made it to Idyllwild. We moseyed around Idyllwild then checked into our hotel. Laundry service was provided for $5, with loaner clothes! We wandered back into town for drinks and sushi. We finished the night at an Airbnb with our hiker friends from Day 1 and Montezuma Valley Market. All of us worn out from 11 days of extreme walking, we sank into the couches and watched most of Avatar. Maggie and I enjoyed a nice walk back in the cool evening air, a waxing cresent moon illuminating the horizon.
Day 12 – 0.5 miles/152
Our first real zero day. Not much to report, just walked around and resupplied. Hitched out back to the trail and camped half a mile from the road.
Some general thoughts on trail life so far: 1) I miss chairs and couches the most, 2) I’m less sore than I thought I would be by now, 3) We are definitely already feeling stronger, no “trail legs” yet, but 15 miles feels pretty easy, and 4) Even when the days are mostly boring, there is usually something that is redeeming or really awesome that makes it feel worthwhile 🙂
Distance Over Time 