The mountains around Taos Ski Valley, NM form an enticing cirque of moderately rugged peaks. This includes the state high point, Wheeler Peak 13,161′, and half a dozen other peaks in the high 12,000 to low 13,000 foot range. Maggie and I had attempted to traverse the ridge line in 2020, but we had to bail half way due to thunderstorms. When some friends were stoked on doing the Taos Traverse, we made a plan to go for our redemption run.
4 October 2025
The five of us, Ethan, Chloe, Casey, Maggie, and myself, set off just before dawn on the Williams Lake Trail. The weather forecast was a little iffy, high winds and a slight chance of precipitation, so we were keen to get an early start before the worst of the weather. Everyone else in the crew had the idea of running the loop. I was dealing with some chronic pain in my IT band, which kept me to a walking pace…
We jogged a little on the gentle uphill grade towards Williams Lake, and I was falling behind. Either the intensive cardio first thing in the morning was too much, or my friends felt bad for me, but we regrouped before long. We found a compromise moving on at a steady power hiking pace of ~17:00 minutes per mile. This pace actually felt really good for my legs and my lungs.
Down in the basin, we couldn’t see sunrise directly, but the clouds overhead signaled daybreak with a splash of firey flare. We got into the business of the climb. Our pace slowed accordingly, or was it the frequent stops to take pretty pictures of the alpenglow? This was actually my first time taking the switchbacks from Williams Lake to Wheeler Peak. It’s definitely a grind, but reasonably graded.
As we got closer to the ridge top, the wind started to reveal itself. Little chilly gusts at first, then full blown 40-50 mph gales. Conversation was nearly impossible and we had to brace ourselves while hiking in exposed areas. Nevertheless, spirits were high as we approached New Mexico’s high point.
There are far cooler mountains in New Mexico than Wheeler Peak, but it’s a solidly decent mountain. We got a group pic on the summit and promptly continued moving to find some respite from the icy wind.
The trail dipped below the east side of the ridge where we reconvened for a moment with some shelter. Continuing south, we had a bit of easy trail to the next 13er, Simpson Peak. Descending towards the following saddle, we got an epic view with bright sun behind us and dark clouds looming over the peaks in front of us. The juxtaposition of light and dark was unreal.
Soon after, the clouds pushed overhead and blocked out the sun as we were entering the spiciest section of the ridge. This is what we came for – exposed class 3 scrambling in the alpine. At first glance, the rock looks unstable, but it’s surprisingly solid. We were having a blast scampering across the spine.
The scrambling is fun but relatively short lived. Tundra and talus was the theme of the day as we continued up and down minor peaks. The weather was still holding off by the time we reached the spot Maggie and I had bailed previously. We did a quick check in since this was the last reasonable place to get off the ridge. Everyone was good to continue onward and complete the traverse.
We tackled the last big climb up Lake Fork Peak and rewarded ourselves with a snack break. From there, it was a straightforward alpine romp. We took the time to tag Rich Peak, even though it was a little off the path of least resistance.
At last we crested Kachina Peak, our final summit of the day! The home stretch was a quick walk down through Taos Ski Valley. The heavens could hold back no more, as they let loose some graupel on our descent. We pretty much nailed the timing! The stormy weather added some intensity but we knew we were just a stone’s throw from civilization.
Our adventure ended at The Bavarian, a German themed restaurant at the base of the ski area. What a treat! We were quite satisfied with the day and satiated by a solid meal.
The Taos Traverse was pure fun! At 11 miles and 4,300 feet of vert, it was a quick but full value outing, and an adventure we would happily do again. Maggie and I really enjoyed getting out with friends who embrace the “fast and light” style. I think Ethan, Chloe, and Casey may have been going faster and lighter than us! We were stoked to finally get redemption and experience this traverse with somewhat questionable fall weather.