Week 1 – Mexican Border to Julian

Day 2 – 13 miles/28

After the rain ordeal, Maggie and I slept in, even though our tent was poorly pitched and slowly sinking under the weight of all the moisture. We ate a light breakfast and commiserated with our camp neighbors about the unreasonable amount of water that fell from the sky overnight, our first trauma bonding.

We had a quick 5 miles to Lake Morena where we could get a hot breakfast at a popular day 2 stop for hikers. Second breakfast ended up being lunch since we got to the restaurant/shop around 11:45. We moved at an easy pace the rest of the day. I think the stress from day 1 gave us little drive to push it day 2. We dried out our gear at Boulder oaks campground. Soon after crossing under I-8, we camped near kitchen creek falls at mile 28.

Day 3 – 17 miles/45

Early-ish start, we had our sights set 15+ miles ahead. Somehow, this was our first day using our water filter, towns and campgrounds had provided water to this point.

Sadly, the lush subtropical coastal “desert” gave way to scrubby hills. We had a long climb through a valley of this exposed landscape, and it was sunny and hot. We got our first taste of “the bubble” at lunch where 12 other hikers gathered around water source us.

Eventually we got high enough (altitude-wise) for the scrub to let up and oaks, pine trees (Jeffery, Coulter, 4-needle pinyon) and incensce-cedars grew. This was immensely refreshing. We got some relief from the sun and the fresh scent of warm conifers percolating through the air.

At a junction, we deliberated over a side trip to a French café in Mount Laguna. A group passed by and easily convinced us to go. We got fries and beer at the Pine House Cafe while the bubble caught up to us. We took our veggie burgers to go. Only at 13 for the day, we pushed 4 more tired miles out to camp on a high saddle.

The group we saw earlier was already set up there and invited us to join. This may have been a bad choice, not for the people, but for the wind. The saddle funneled the wind all night, and our tent was flapping incessantly… I think I got 3 or 4 hours of sleep, Maggie less than that. Our camp friend said it was “A character building night.”

Day 4 – 14 miles/59

Chilly and miserable morning after the long day and lackluster sleep. Maggie has slowly been experiencing symptoms of a upper respiratory cold and sore throat, and this morning it was in full force. Her body feeling otherwise good, she powered through and hiked. We were out of the woods and mostly back in the exposed scrub. Nice views to the desert below and peaks to the north.

We ate lunch at a little picnic area, and chatting with other hikers, it sounded like we were all headed for the same campsite. We made sure to boogey out of there to get first dibs. We cruised along the ridgeline amongst wite granite boulders. Last chance for water was at a scummy cistern, but our filter worked some magic to deliver clear tasty hydration.

We successfully made it to camp first and got a large flat spot. A dozen other hikers trickled in. We gathered around for dinner for chit chat. Everyone was respectful and in bed by 8. Maggie was sniffly and stuffed up, but thankfully a fellow hike gave her decongestant. West wind from the sea brought in a cloud over camp at dinner, but it cleared up for a cool damp night.

Day 5 – 16 miles/75

Easy start, made a hot breakfast (I had traded ramen for oatmeal). The day consists of a lot of up and down, but mostly down off the mountain to get near the road to acces Julian (CA 78). It was hot and sunny again, and only got warmer as we desended off the mountain.

Maggie’s cold was getting slightly better, but still coughing and her voice was rather hoarse. Thankfully we found some shade for a nice lunch break by a water source. After that was a long hot 6 mi slog down to camp. On the way, we took a lengthy shade break under a boulder to cool off. More classic desert flora was appearing around us- cactus, yucca, agave. We camped alone. The sky treates us with a nice sunset.

Feeling sore after 75 miles, we exchanged much needes back rubs. By this point, this is definitely my longest backpacking trip to date. It has been challenging but definitely manageable so far.

Day 6 – 4 miles/79

I awoke in the twilight hours and thought I heard a coyote sniffing around my pack just outside the tent. I tried to shout a sharp “Hey!”, but all that came out was a belabored, “huc.. huc.. huc,” as if I was choking on my own tongue. I couldn’t even move my hands, arms, or turn my head to look and see. It felt like quite some time, but was probably only 15 seconds of this. When I came to, I realized I had my first ever episode of sleep paralysis. The “coyote” was nothing more that the tent door flapping in the breeze. I’m glad I knew what sleep pararlysis was, otherwise I would have been rather spooked by the experience.

Up and moving, it was time to resupply. We had two flat miles to Hwy 78, where we hitched into Julian. Miraculously, we got picked up in about 10 seconds by the first car, a trail angel (Professor) dropping water off for hikers in the morning. Naturally we got a hot breakfast. For months, Maggie has been talking about Mom’s Pie shop, which gives a free slice of pie to PCT hikers. Apple with salted caramel ice cream for me, stawberry rhubarb with whipped cream for Maggie. Grocery shopping, humongous sandwiches, and a few beers to go. We hitched in a big ol’ truck with a former hot shot to Banner campground for showers and “laundry” (rinsing clothes in the shower), quite nice actually. We made sure to say hi to the burros on our way out!

One last hitch back to scissors crossing with an interesting fella from Philly who talked about drinking 19 beers the night before. Nice guy, but thank goodness that was a short hitch. We hiked two miles and 700′ of elevation gain with heavy packs, full of food and water, up to camp. So much for that shower… It was a calm quiet evening after all the hustle and bustle of Julian.